Throughout my life, until I came to Barga in Tuscany, New Year’s Day marked the end of the Christmas season; all bar the clearing up that is.
January 6th (Epiphany) was merely the traditional day to take down all the decorations and, by then, life had already returned to its routines. However, in Italy, Epiphany is a public holiday, and the Christmas season does not end until after that date. A Tuscan proverb says “So with the Epiphany, the holiday comes to an end.”
In the United Kingdom, and many other countries, children wait excitedly, for Father Christmas to come on the night of Christmas Eve. In Italy, too, but here children also have another exciting wait for a visitor -“La Befana”, who comes on the night of January 5th. This tradition in Italy, is far more ancient than Father Christmas, whose appearance and popularity has grown only since WW2.
Photo Jenny Mead
The legend of “La Befana” takes many forms, and its origins could date back to the Sabine/Roman goddess Strina or Strenia. One Christian version is that she was an ever-busy and extremely hard-working old lady, whose clean house and baking skills were renowned. The Magi (The Three Wise Men) visited and stayed with her while following the star in their search for the infant Jesus.
As the Magi prepared to take their leave, they invited “La Befana” to go with them, but she, alas, was far too busy. Later, she regretted her decision and set off to try to find them. Sadly, she failed to do so and, to this day, she sets off on her broomstick, on the night of January 5th to continue her search. She takes gifts to every child, just in case!
Photo Massimo Pia
Her gifts vary but, by tradition, good children receive fruits, sweets and other presents, while naughty children get a lump of coal or onions, or something equally undesirable. Nowadays, even good children might get some black sweets that look like lumps of coal – to keep them on their mettle?
“La Befana” is often portrayed as an old woman riding on a broomstick. She wears a black shawl and her face is covered with soot from going up and down chimneys; perhaps Father Christmas should share his secret as to how he stays so clean! It is also said that she will sweep the floor before she leaves a house, which could be interpreted as sweeping away all the problems of the year.
Traditionally people leave out a small glass of wine and some food for “La Befana”; does that ring any bells?
The tradition is still strong in Italy, with shops selling stockings (mainly red), black sweets, “La Befana” figures and toys and special biscuits etc. There are parties, public and private, and many people go from house to house celebrating the bonds of family and friendship.
Many towns and cities have big celebrations on the evening of January 5th (or even the 6th), but I can’t imagine wanting to be anywhere other than in Barga. For me, that evening has become one of the highlights of the calendar – a real “must do” event.
Photo Jenny Mead
By Jenny M Want
For Jenny, living in Italy is a dream come true. A retired teacher, she now lives in scenic Barga in Tuscany with her partner David.
Immersed in Barga life, Jenny passes her time writing, researching, observing and learning.
Jenny has written a fun book for children set in Barga, Tuscany – The Bat of Barga.
Pauline says
What a lovely story, and how enjoyable the celebrations must be in Barga. I like the look of the Befana biscuits, and can imagine they taste as good as they look.
Alex Roe says
I agree, Pauline, Jenny’s tales of Barga and the surrounding area are always charming and interesting. You can read more of her Barga stories by clicking here: Jenny’s Barga Tales.
Best,
Alex (The editor)
Pauline says
Thank you for the link Alex. I must admit that I read Italy Chronicles regularly, and have been especially fascinated by Jenny’s stories of Barga. Her photographs are lovely too. My partner and I are just going to have to pay a visit to Barga to see all the lovely sights for ourselves.
Alex Roe says
Hi Pauline,
Good to hear you are already a Jenny fan – thanks for reading. Jenny certainly does make one curious about Barga and she loves the place too! If you and your partner do actually make it to Barga, and I hope you do, please pop back and tell us all how you got on. The more I read about Barga, the more I want to see it for myself too 🙂
Cheers,
Alex
Jenny M Want says
Thanks Pauline. I’m pleased you enjoyed the article. Barga is a fascinating place. You should come for a visit.
Jenny M Want says
Thanks for your comments Tiana. Glad you liked the article. It is only one version of many; some are quite “dark”. Often the Befane are men dressed up, but I “know” one of the Befana in Barga, and she is definitely a woman!
Jenny M Want says
Thanks for your comments Tiana. Glad you liked the article. It is only one version of many; some are quite :dark”. Often the Befane are men dressed up, but I “know” one of the Befana in Barga, and she is definitely a woman!
Tiana says
Thanks for this! I always wanted to learn the full story…and clearly I’m too lazy to look it up, so this is perfect! Last year I saw Befana skiing in Sestriere, she was amazing and somewhat resembled a tennage boy.